Tips: Feed The Mend

Water is filled with power. Immense potential just waiting to get the kinetic party started. To be frank, it scares me. It always has, despite my love of being around it, and has created a healthy respect. Sometimes the power is hard to see, especially on calm waters. But, try forcing that water through unyielding canyon walls or down into cascading craggy pockets. The frothing foam begins to resemble the seething slobber of an angry pitbull.

Physics makes a better friend than enemy. We fishermen deal with physics on a regular basis, even if we aren't aware of it. Forces and energy are always at work, heeded or not. Setting the hook too abruptly can rip the hook from a fish's mouth. Not setting hard enough won't transfer enough force to drive the hook into place. Pulling too hard can break tippets, bend hooks, and even snap rods. Wading upriver against the force of the water is a chore, if not impossible in some situations. Learning to befriend and work with the physics at work is a great way to become a better angler. Understanding the mechanics of casting, setting the hook, and using the rod to fight the fish will result in saved gear and more fish landed.

So much of fly fishing is conceptualization. Often artists picture an image in their mind before even taking a single brush stroke. On top of that, learning to use their brushes allows them to better bring their mental creations into existence.

Casting, mending, setting the hook, and fighting fish are only few aspects of our art, but visualizing the underlying mechanics and then learning to work with them adds to the result and beauty of the whole experience.

It is said that insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, expecting a different result. If that is the case, there are a lot of insane fishermen out there. The problem is, we learn by trial and error. Unfortunately, it is easy to develop a "working" technique that does enough to catch some fish, which causes us to become complacent and unwilling to stretch. It always comes back to the 80/20 (80% of the fish are caught by 20% of the anglers).  The real satisfaction comes when we work for it, and that means practice and trying to understand the underlying theory. This doesn't mean we have to go fishing all the time. It just means that we explore and improve in the time we have. Who knows, you might find yourself catching more and better fish because of it.

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Feed the Mend
 
Casting is hungry work. What better way to satiate that hunger than to feed the mend. Mending is part of the casting process, often done just after the initial cast, but other times done simultaneously. The idea is to keep the fly in the optimal zone as long as possible once the cast places it there. Mending prolongs the presentation. It takes practice and can be quite frustrating at times. Different lines and rods mend differently. Wind or fast moving water can add to the struggle.


There may be a more technical or regularly used term for this tip, but since I learned the principle through experience I will refer to it as "feeding the mend." This applies to the mend that is done post initial cast.

Picture yourself having just made a diagonal cast upstream to begin the drift. A second after the current grabs the line and begins hustling it down river is when most guys throw in a first mend. Once the line is straight in front of the angler or just a bit downriver from him is when the second mend is often placed. In both instances, a common problem we run into is that by mending the fly/indicator/line is pulled from it's prime landing spot. So how to fix this? Feed the mend.

It's a simple trick really, and maybe most people do it already, but I was slow to catch on. The idea is that as the line is pulled up and rolled over for the mend, you let some additional line out. It has to happen as the mend is occurring though, mid-mend if you will.  This will allow the mend to occur by taking line from you, rather than pulling the fly-tipped end back and out of the zone.  I usually let my line go as I mend so it can take as much as it needs.  The extra line you let out can quickly be recovered as the drift continues, allowing you to retain your hook-setablity.  Applying this simple little tip will let your nymph or dry or even swung streamer to stay in place far longer, which will result in more hookups. It takes practice, but is well worth the effort. Give it a try.

Mousing For Trout: An enlightening lie

Learning to mouse for trout has been quite the experience. Like fishing at any other time of day, there are so many factors that play into it. Lighting, weather, temperature, time of year, water levels, and location are just a few factors to reckon with. With so many factors dancing about each other, it makes for a slow learning process.  It's funny how our outlooks or previously held ideas morph and change with time and experience. Life is dynamic, with very few static elements. If we aren't learning, we are only getting dumber.  Needless to say, I still have a lot to learn about mousing for trout. The following is a concept that has slowly formed in my mind, and may not be entirely accurate, but it seems correct so far. It may be helpful, but maybe not.

Here it is. I'm going to say it. Mousing for trout is a sham. A farce. Utter foolery without Tom as the instigator. Mousing, as many of us have come to think of it, is not in fact truly "mousing" with many of the traditional mouse patterns we use.

Deception is the basis of fly fishing, but that deception can go two ways. Normally we try to fool the fish, but sometimes end up fooling ourselves in the process. This doesn't necessarily lessen our enjoyment of angling, but I think there is some benefit in realizing the distinction, which pertains to mousing for trout. It may even change the flies you choose to fish, or how you fish the ones you're already using.

In life we often superimpose our ideas and views onto other people, assuming they see things as we see them. We can't be blamed. All we have to go on is our own perception of reality. Our whole world is viewed through this personalized lens, even our fly fishing.

As it pertains to fishing, things that look a certain way to us in our out-of-the-water world, may look completely different to a fish in the water.  Full deer hair mouse patterns are notorious for this. They are tied to look just like a mouse that is sitting still, out of the water, eyes, whiskers, ears, and tail to match. An angler looks at one and thinks, "man that looks just like a mouse," failing to ask themselves what a mouse actually looks like in the water, and what parts of a floating fly can actually be seen by a fish. The funny thing is that people catch fish on these flies. Naturally, we assume a fish has taken the fly as a mouse because it looked like a mouse to us out of the water, before we even fished with it.

The Spectrum

In fly fishing we often fish with "attractor" flies. These are patterns that work because they have elements that resemble the real deals, or just generate curiosity from the fish. Some examples could include: Stimulator, Rainbow Warrior, Royal Wolf, Chubby Chernobyl, Chartreuse Glo Bug, Purple Haze, and Parachute Adams. The list could go on and on. Some of these patterns mimic profile, colors, movement, and water displacement, while others have no similarity at all, and yet they all still catch fish. Imagine a spectrum with one side labeled "natural" and the other "attractor." All flies that are used, or have ever been used, would fit somewhere on this spectrum. If we're being super literal, all flies would be classified as attractors, but what I am referring to moves beyond that assumption and allows flies to assume varying degrees. Where a fly falls on our imaginary spectrum depends on what aspects of a fly we choose to focus on.  Factors that would cause a fly to move up or down the scale could include color, movement, profile, or any other specific trait. For example, a Parachute Adams is a common mayfly imitation that most dry fly anglers are familiar with. It is remarkably effective, but I doubt it is because its body color matches many real mayflies. For body color I think the pattern would fall closer to the "attractor" side of things, but for the profile it presents I would say the pattern is closer to the "natural" end. Patterns like this are wonderful go-to's because they can mimic multiple insects. You just have to match the size.

I have come to realize that some of the staple flies used while mousing fit better on the "attractor" end of the spectrum. Full deer hair mouse flies, the Morrish Mouse, or any other fairly short mouse pattern are examples of this. The fact is that they work to catch fish, but I truly wonder what the fish thinks it is rising to take. I doubt many baby mice fall into rivers, and even if they did they would be small, skinny, and pink. I may be wrong but most mice are at least two to three inches long (roughly three quarters length) before they leave the nest and start exploring, which is generally when they are about three weeks old. This length is referring to a non-extended, walking, out-of-water mouse. A sitting mouse is even shorter. The distinction is significant because when a mouse falls or crawls into the water it instinctively begins "doggy paddling," which causes the body to extend, adding more length to the profile.

Mouse flies that mimmic a "sitting" mouse, not a "swimming" mouse.

Most of the original mouse patterns are shorter, stiff haired, and pellet or "A" shaped. As I've already mentioned, these patterns work to catch fish, but I have come to the opinion that most work because they tap into some "knee jerk" reactions deeply embedded in a fishes' primal nature. In the water a mouse is longer than shorter. I tend to think of deer hair patterns that move a decent amount of water as better resembling frogs than mice. Their silhouette certainly better matches a frog kicking around. With the smaller "mouse" patterns I sometimes wonder if the fish aren't thinking they are rising to a giant caddis or other insect struggling in the water or skimming on the surface. The movement alone may induce a bite because the motion is similar to how an injured baitfish would act on the surface, even if the profile is different. I'm not sure the fish even really cares what they represent. Just like most human beings would run to an injured and abandoned crying baby, a fish will at least investigate something struggling on the surface. For those who have "moused" with the traditional patterns before, you may have noticed that nighttime takes often occur shortly after the fly hits the water. For these attractor mouse patterns it is all about the water they move and the wake they make, and when something splashes in the water it instantly kicks the fish into "easy-big-meal mode." I think a bass/frog popper would get the same results in many cases. Heck, we catch fish skating streamers, leeches, and even rubber-legs, many of which work when waked upstream, against a swift current. Nothing in nature does that! The only thing I can think of that comes close is a caddis laying eggs.

The Lie

Much of what we call "mousing" is a farce then. Just because we call a fly something, and it catches fish, does not mean the reason it is catching fish is because it resembles the real deal. Our powerful human brains can fill in the gaps between suggestion. We dream, we philosophize, our brains make sense of flawed information, we assume, and we deduce, and what do fish do, they eat, runaway, and reproduce. Now, #fishlivesmatter too, so don't be offended, and that's why we #keepemwet, but the fact is that a fishes' reasoning is very basic and primitive.

In the end, most mouse flies fool fisherman and fish, but not in the same way. One thinks it's a mouse, while the other eats something that is moving.

Why It Matters

So, what is the take-home message here? Well, there are a few things we can gain from this observation. First of all, I think it opens up our thinking so that we can focus on one of the key elements of topwater-trouting; water movement. Second of all, if you want to catch a fish and say you caught it on a mouse, fish a pattern that at least resembles a mouse to the fish (old, long held ideas die hard). Either add some body length to those age old patterns so it more accurately fits a mouses' profile, or fish one of the newer articulated patterns that are cropping up more and more now that people are paying more attention to what a mouse actually looks like in the water. Thirdly, realize that confidence has more to do with fly fishing than the "right fly" in a lot of cases. And lastly, get creative. I really think we could have some fun developing crazy "attractor" patterns to fish at night, ones that focus more on increasing hookups, or adding crazy movement.

I'm not trying to rag on anyone who feels they have caught a fish with a "mouse." More than anything I am pointing out an area in fly fishing where we are progressing in terms of understanding and fly design. If you are doing something that is working for you, by all means keep doing it and keep enjoying it. In the end, all we fishermen are fooling ourselves, telling lies and making up stories, but isn't that part of the fun. Sometimes it causes me to wonder though, between the angler and the fish, who is fooling who.

Tips: Movement

Movement is a principle of life. Stagnation yields disease and decay. Movement means growth, organization, improvement, productivity, and cleansing. As it is in life, so also in fly fishing.

"How long can rolling waters remain impure? What power shall stay the heavens? As well might man stretch forth his puny arm to stop the Missouri river in its decreed course, or to turn it up stream, as to hinder the Almighty..."

D&C 121:33

Tips: Movement

A little movement can mean the difference between a good day on the water, and a great day. Sometimes the difference comes from what is moved, sometimes it is in how a thing is moved, and at other times it is in how long the movement lasts. Whether it's the fisherman or the fly, motion can be a game changer.

Streamers: When fishing a streamer it never hurts to consider what the fish might be taking it as.  Does it look like a baitfish? Perhaps a large leech? These questions are good to consider because they may change how you move the fly, if you are moving it at all.  Leeches wiggle, shrink, expand, and pulse through the water column.  As a fly, this would result in smaller movements, pauses between strips, where the fly covers less distance, but may still be repeatedly abrupt or jerky. A baitfish is more likely to dart or have a continuous swimming movement. One of the big differences is from the amount of water they cover. An injured baitfish may fall to the river bottom only to dart back up into the water column.  One of my favorite retrieves when fishing a baitfish streamer is a short fast strip, followed by a longer slower strip, and then a moments pause.  This approach has coaxed many otherwise unwilling fish to bite, making them think that their potential meal would be easy-pickings. Trying different stripping techniques is a quick and easy way to switch up our approach and worth trying before we switch to another fly or move to another run.

Nymphs: When fishing a nymph we often think that a smooth, unaffected drift is best. I think this idea results from an issue dealing with depth and bite detection. Whenever we mend our line in a way that our indicator moves, it lifts our flies out of the sweet spot, requiring more time on the drift for the flies to sink back into the zone.  Good mending usually helps us avoid pulling our flies too much out of the zone, but we often miss out on an aspect that could increase our catching; the movement. To add movement to an indicator/nymph rig the answer is found in adding more weight either to the fly or to the line.  This allows us to twitch the indicator intermittently, causing our flies to dance, all the while still allowing our flies to stay deep in the zone. Adding movement can be especially beneficial when fishing a hatch where bugs are emerging or fishing nymphs that resemble a leech, baitfish, or crayfish. If you aren't using an indicator, you may already know how deadly a slow stripped tandem nymph rig can be. Swinging soft hackles is another effective approach.  With a single handed rod and floating line, an upstream cast, with a generous amount of line/slack, allows the flies to sink down and run lower in the water column. Then when your line reaches the end of the drift and comes tight, the flies that sank on the drift, rise in a "hatching" motion. The takes are usually aggressive.

Dries: Nothing looks more delicious to a hungry surface-feeding trout than a struggling terrestrial. Now, this does not mean skating a mayfly, though that technique slays with caddis. In most cases though, the drag-free drift is the way to go with dries. But just because you are keeping it drag-free doesn't mean you can't make that chubby shimmy. Ants, hoppers, mayflies, spiders, wasps, beetles, bees, and many other topwater tasties struggle once they find themselves stuck in a watery mire. Little twitches can conjure up the unwilling trout, much like the right movement with a streamer will do. Indeed, two anglers can fish the same water with the same fly, but one can outcatch other other 3:1, and this is usually their secret to success.  Adding movement to dries seems to be easiest with larger, more bouyant patterns like hoppers, chubbies, salmonflies, and caddis, but does not need to be restricted to them.  The trick is to make the fly have movement, but not move the fly a great distance in the water. Much easier said than done, but a worthy technique to master.

Fly Construction: Not all materials are created equal. This is a hard concept for many to accept. I hear ice dub has even made an appeal to the supreme court because hare's ear dub is claiming that ice dub is not natural. Rabbit strips say it won't go anywhere, and most saddle hackles don't want to get involved. I say, why can't they all accept their differences and get along. Together they could make a pretty sweet fly. All kidding aside, knowing what a given material does in the water can be helpful.  Some materials have inherent movement and require less work on the anglers part to make the fly look alive. Other materials require the angler to compensate. Some are better for a swinging fly, while others do better stationary or stripped in. Rabbit hair flairs out and pulsates with minimal added movement. Buck tail is more ridged and maintains a fuller body. Marabou feathers slick down and keep a narrow profile when in the water. Ice dub, as a synthetic, loops and has a brushy velcro effect that can catch on a trouts teeth. These are good things to be aware of because you know what your fly can do and what you need to do to help it look alive. Mixing different kinds of materials to construct a fly can also add or take away movement. A good example of this is Kelly Galloup's Sex Dungeon. The large deer hair head pushes water and, much like air pressure and airplane wings, creates a negative pressure behind the head. This results in a stationary head and an erratic swimming tail. Even if you do not tie your own flies, it doesn't hurt to understand something about how they are made. If nothing else, play with them in the water close enough to you that you can see how they act and react to your movements with the rod.

Two Flies: One thing I often do, which has helped improve my catching considerably, is to fish two flies at the same time. This is one technique that a lot of anglers avoid because of the extra hassles involved.  The reason I mention this in an article aimed at movement is that whenever a second fly is added, the attached line and dragging fly affect the lead fly. This can hinder hookups and movement on the first fly but can also make it look much more desirable. I'll often tie on a white trailer because it gets the fishes attention.  I honestly think that they see the white more easily, and then register that it is chasing another thing. In the spur of the moment this creates a momentary thought of scarcity for any fish seeing the chase. "If that little fish is focused on what is chasing it, it won't see me coming to chomp it from the side!" is what a fish might say. On a side note, I have also noticed that fishing a heavy lead fly and a weightless trailing fly lets me fish deeper but helps me avoid getting snags because the trailing fly helps pull the lead fly up away from the bottom. 

The Angler: Sometimes we linger when we should move to fresh water, while at other times we walk right through what has the potential to be a productive lie. For this I have no great advice to give because it has mostly to do with preference and personal experience. I will say this though, when given the choice I usually choose to move.  If I move around and have not found success with what I expected to work, I then change up my tactics and cover the water again. Just don't give up too quick or you'll rob yourself of some good learning opportunities that will likely result in some stellar fishing.


With most things in life, moderation enriches. In your adventures with adding movement into your fishing, don't forget to pause every now and again.  Sometimes the fish want it slow or not moving at all. Sometimes we need to stop moving to appreciate what is right in front of us.  Sometimes we need to stop talking and start thinking. Sometimes we need to stop clogging our eardrums with noise and start listening to the beautiful and reverent sounds of creation.  Like any magnificent and moving arrangement of music, there's a tempo, there's notes, there's rests, and there's a rhythm. Good luck creating yours, and remember, sometimes a little movement makes all the difference.

Tips: The Hierarchy of Lies

The other day while I was meandering down the river bank, I saw what looked like an arm sticking out of the water.  As I cautiously approached the frightening spectacle it began thrashing about, back and forth in the water, making quite the scene.  Seconds later the hairy arm plummeted into the depths. Suddenly a brown trout the size of a small bus leapt from the water with a gurgling growl. Knowing the only chance I had to save the poor swallowed man was to catch this behemoth with my fly rod I quickly pulled out my flies. In haste I tied on the largest fly I had in my box, a ten inch articulated monstrosity. Casting ahead of the massively waking fish I began stripping line with a messy madness. The wake followed. Moments before the fly reached the bank, the water exploded and it was quickly apparent the giant was chasing me, not my fly. I threw my rod in desperation and grabbed the behemoth's mighty, kyped jaws. During the struggle the great brown gagged and spluttered, causing it's last would-be meal to fly out, knocking me to the ground. The fish thrashed back into the water, and as I got to my feet I found myself standing alongside Sasquatch.  He thanked me for my help, and with a polite nod, sauntered back into the trees. I'll never forget the day.

Now I know this sounds completely legit, but I have to admit, it was a lie. It was actually a rainbow trout. As entertaining as lies can be, this post is not about that kind of lie.

I'm a firm believer that understanding a fish's behavior improves an anglers ability.  Maybe it isn't true, but the belief comes from personal experience. Fly fishing is all about learning what flies to use, when to use them, and how to get into the zone with the right fly movement, or lack thereof. Every bit of the process is focused on trout behavior. We anglers look at how they act, so we know how to act in the hopes that they will react in a positive way.

When I began my untrained trek into the world of fly fishing, I was daunted. I didn't know much about insects, fly lines, leaders/tippet (still get a bit confused on the X system to be honest), wet flies vs dry flies, and a bunch of other aspects surrounding the sport. It has been a wonderful journey of discovery, filled with a lot of trial and error.  If you are just getting into the sport, or are considering it, don't give up when things don't come easy.  All the messy days spent learning add up to some pretty spectacular days on the water where everything falls into place. If you are an experienced fly fisherman, don't get stuck in a rut.  Keep learning, exploring and trying things differently.  The payoffs get better and better the more you know.

Some of the first valuable lessons I learned in trout behavior came to me while watching "The Underwater World of Trout" by Wendel (Ozzie) Ozefovich. I highly recommend the four-part series to anyone interested in underwater trout behavior. It appears that much of the filming takes place in smaller stocked streams, but I think the principles Wendel comes up with still hold true for general trout behavior in most places. The videos are super dry, but worth their weight in gold.

Tips: The Hierarchy of Lies

Have you ever stopped to think why the prime spots in the river are prime? I once heard the analogy that rivers are conveyor-belts for food, at least to a trout's perspective.  This is the case in most bodies of water with moderate to fast currents.  (In lakes and rivers with very slow current, fish have to move to find food and this principle applies a bit differently.) Factory workers who deal with conveyor belts on a daily basis may have some idea about trout behavior and not even know it; especially those who deal with any kind of conveyor-belt sorting.

In some ways, the worker who stands at the head of a conveyor belt has the easiest job when it comes to sorting. At the end of the day they get the same pay, but are not as tired. They don't have to look nearly as hard to find the things that should be pulled out. Similarly a trout, whose survival depends upon what the conveyor belt brings his way, wants access to the juiciest, most protein packed meals before any other trout. This gives way to a "pecking order." The biggest, strongest fish acts just like the bully on the playground.  He gets first dibs on what would be other kids' lunches.  This is why the head of a lie (top of the hole/run) usually holds the largest fish.  The head of the hole is the prime spot because it is usually where the juicy morsel of food is first presented in an easy-to-eat fashion, and the biggest/toughest fish knows this and claims that spot as his territory. This is the same case at night, as well as during the day. 

If the biggest fish is caught or leaves that preferable lie, the next biggest moves right in to take it's place.  This is often why we anglers can catch multiple fish in one particular spot.  Usually the largest is first, then they can get progressively smaller.

It all comes back to the hierarchy of lies, and not the ones we tell our fishing buddies. We need to think about the three big lies: protective, feeding, and prime (a combination of the previous two). If we were to place them in a hierarchy, or list of priority and importance to the fish I would say that they first want a protective lie, then a feeding lie, and if possible they will gladly take a prime.  What we fail to realize, or at least think about (because most avid fisherman already fish to this principle) is that there is a hierarchy within each of these lies which stems from the natural pecking order trout follow.

Another Skullcracker victim...

So what's the point in paying attention to these details?  Understanding this pecking order, with the accompanying preferable places to hold helps us make a game plan to fish these lies. Decide if you are going for quantity or straight for the biggest one in the bunch.  If you are aiming for numbers, or just really want to cover a hole, I would start from the bottom and fish my way up, trying to play fish away from the rest of the hole.  If I were looking for the king of the hole's hierarchy, I would work the head first, take a few swings through the tailout for any straggling peasants, and then move on.  

A Case For The Weighted Streamer

Knowing this information about trout behavior has pushed me to work the head of the run pretty hard. Quite often the top of a good hole is also a prime lie. Fast water, lots of oxygen, and rapid drop-offs aren't uncommon. As a prime lie, sometimes these places are tough to fish.  If I didn't get a grab the first few times through, chances are I need to go deeper.  The head of holes can be tricky to fish because of the fast current. That king fish in the pecking order is usually sitting in the soft pocket just under the turbulent stuff (think of a king safe and sound in the throne room).  In really fast, roiling water, no sinking line can make this zone accessible without casting upstream and letting the line swing deeply, because the line is at the mercy of the current, even if it sinks fast.  And when going for the deep swing at the head of a hole, there is a high likelihood of getting snagged. For these cases I prefer a very heavy streamer and a floating line (forgive me Mr. Galloup).  The streamer can cut through the water column and the floating line reduces the drag and keeps the fly from getting snagged.  Think of it as a kind of streamer/nymphing hybrid because of the vertical nature of the initial presentation. The presentation of the fly is not terribly natural, but it gets in the sweet spot, and I'm not terribly convinced that a minnow wouldn't be getting pushed around in the current in an unnatural way anyway. It sounds odd, and most fly fisherman shy away from fishing very heavy flies, but it's one way of stepping out of the box. Very few anglers access these zones, and the few that make the effort will find themselves greatly rewarded. 

I tie my own patterns for this special kind of situation (Magic Dragon and Skullcracker), but a simple modification to popular patterns like the Sex Dungeon will yield similar results. Just substitute the usual dumbbell eyes for at least the 1/4" Ibalz.  Collin Carlson's Provo Hooker is also an excellent pattern for such circumstances. Throwing weight to access these lies, which sit at the top of the fishy hierarchy, can take some adjustment. It takes extra care not to shatter your rod, or crack your skull, but the awkward transition pays dividends. Chuck and duck, as they say, can make it a big fish day. Just make sure you duck. And mind the hierarchy.

Tips: Night Fishing - Part 1 "The Basics"

It all started as an experiment, much like most people's transition into streamer fishing.  Night fishing is something that fascinates and engenders curiosity in most anglers.  Unknowns abound and things appear even more mysterious when shrouded in the darkness of night.

Something stirred in my mind when I first thought about standing along a river beneath a deep starlit sky, headlamp on and rod in hand.  The idea made a home in the corner of my mind, where it slowly grew in size. I can't even recall what made us first decide to try. The idea had become an elephant and, being in the middle of the room, could no longer be ignored. What was first a sliver of fear, a hint of apprehension, and an immense amount of curiosity transformed into a reverent respect for the magical, mystical, and even sacred nature of the night.  It teaches you humility and awe to be surrounded in something that feels so ancient. Sometimes it feels like I just stepped into a room full of people where I am a stranger.  Everyone is talking and as I move about the conversations stop and the occupants stare in interest.  In this case it is not people, but animals, and this is their room. They own the night and I am simply a guest. Beavers have a remarkable knack for making that idea clear.  I have slowly developed a passionate dislike, maybe even hatred for those flat tailed, buck toothed critters during the night escapades. You want a heart attack? Run up to a beaver on the river in the pitch black night, or better yet just run along the river bank focusing on something completely different than beavers. The sound is like a small asteroid shot from the heavens smashing into the river next to you. I wouldn't recommend this if you have high blood pressure, but I digress.

Despite beavers, the wonder of the world becomes new when you are forced to experience it in a different way.  We rely so heavily upon a couple key senses that we often neglect or forget about the others we posses (I think this includes the spiritual part of our being).  Needless to say, I love night fishing. I find myself wishing it would get darker sooner.  I used to dread the sun creeping down below the horizon because it used to mean the fishing opportunity sank with it. Now I yearn for the cool blanket of night because I know that it will be a feast for the senses, it will improve my angling, and it brings out monstrous lurking trout on the prowl for big meals. One other perk is that it opens up time to fish when days are filled with grown-up business, though the lack of sleep sometimes catches up to you.

Tips: Night Fishing - Part 1 "The Basics"

I am no expert and make no claim to greatness.  The intent is to share some of the key factors of night fishing, personal ideas really.  Hopefully these thoughts can give you a place to start. I wouldn't recommend reading any further if you prefer sleep over most things.  I am breaking this tips section into two posts.  The first is to give some basic gear and my own theories behind fly fishing for trout at night.  The second section will focus on mousing.

What to bring?

Headlamp - Having a good headlamp on the water at night is vital.  I prefer one that has a red light that can be turned on independently of the white lights. When doing most things, aside from hiking into the river or landing a fish, I will use the red light and face away from the water.  The idea is that the red light is not very visible for fish, and most fish at night are spooked by bright white light.  It is also a good idea to take a small LED backup light and extra batteries for the headlamp.  It's no fun hiking in the dark, especially if you are alone.  Been there... heeebie jeeebies.

Jacket - This is up to you, but even in the summers things get a bit chilly when you are standing in a river. I am usually grateful I have one, even if it is just my wading jacket.

Glasses - I have been guilty of going without safety glasses many times, but it is not wise. Flinging flies the size of small chickens + the fact that it is pitch black + your eyes are wide open and can't see something coming at them + the occasional wind = a recipe for disaster. Most Buff wearing buffoons won't be deterred by this tacky fashion statement that enhances safety. Avoiding blindness with this simple step is highly recommended.

Rod, Line, and Tippet - There isn't an end-all be-all setup for stalking trout at night.  In some cases I prefer my fast action 5wt that has good tip flex, in others I use my fast 8wt and sometimes I use my slow 8wt.  In 99% of the situations I have faced at night a floating line is the way to go.  Fish are usually looking up at night, unless you are fishing a place that is lit all the time, such as below a dam. Faster action rods help you push large/wind-resistant flies, especially when there is some wind. Slower action rods make it easier to give motion to certain patterns (think mouse) and can help compensate for premature hooksets. For the tippet, there is no reason to go small. While fish can see much better at night than most people think, they aren't leader shy. With the added risk of tangling in brush or hooking log jams, it is a good idea to have a heavy duty leader and tippet. I make my own leader/tippet for such occasions. I use about 3' of 30lb mono with a blood knot connection to a roughly 3' section of 20lb mono and then attatch that to about 3' of my tippet material (14lb Berkley Vanish Fluorocarbon). When fishing mice I cut the overall length of my leader + tippet in half, and I'll explain that in the next post.

Flies - Here you have to consider what is available to the fish, just like most anglers do during the day.  Don't overlook possibilities. Fish are aggressive at night.  Bigger fish (and small fish wanting to be big) are on the prowl for big meal ticket items.  This doesn't mean that smaller patterns won't work, or aren't sometimes the preference, but in general big begets big.  I'll get more into the theories on fish behavior in a bit. Think minnows, leeches, mice, and in some cases stoneflies (terrestrial), hoppers, hex, big parachute adams, or large caddis. I have yet to do much with the dry patterns, but I'll eventually get there. Some good patterns to have on hand in both weighted and unweighted versions: the almighty wooly bugger, peanut envy, sex dungeon, morrish mouse, or mr hankey mouse.  I would carry the streamers mostly in black, but have a couple tied in white and olive.  If you tie your own flies these are pretty easy patterns to whip up.  I have developed a couple streamers, along with a mouse pattern that I have found great success with.  I use these pretty much exclusively: the night rider, magic dragon (black night-version), the artimus (arti-mouse), and short tailed wooly buggers/mohair leeches.  I'll have tying tutorials for the personal patterns up shortly. In most cases I use the unweighted versions, but have run into situations where I was glad to have a weighted version on hand.  If you are tying your own flies, it is a good idea to tie in stinger hooks because trout are notorious for tail-nipping flies at night.  You can also tie really short tails for things like wooly buggers or leeches. If you purchase flies, simply shorten your tails.

Night Rider Streamer

Artimus (Arti-Mouse)

Miscellaneous - Some other things to consider bringing are a camera with a decent flash, snacks, and a buddy. Night fishing alone is quite the experience. Suddenly grown men have thoughts of the boogie man, ravenous bears, mountain lions, chupacabra, or maybe even a wandering zombie in search of a midnight snack. But if solo missions are your thing, then have at it, just watch out for rabid beavers.

The Theories Behind The Madness

Trout are beautiful, but not terribly complex creatures. They are a mystery to us at times, but I have grown to think their hierarchy of needs is pretty simple. Before anything, they seek self preservation. How does that translate into behavior? They spook and dart away when something appears unusual. They spend sunny days in protective lies under trees, rocks, or river banks. They often hold in deep or fast moving water. Secondly, fish seek sustenance but only as long as they feel safe first. I have yet to witness a time where self preservation came in second place. If you want to prove this idea to yourself try placing your fly in front of an actively feeding fish, then wait for it to make a move toward your offering and when the fish is close to eating make a loud noise and see if the fish sticks around for the meal before spooking. It sounds silly but most anglers know about this behavior, though they rarely think about it.

Because fish are scare-dee cats some of the best fishing happens in places where fish can move quickly and easily between protective lies and feeding lies. The zones where fish are both protected and can easily feed are called prime lies. During the day truly prime lies are difficult to access and result in lost flies, so most anglers avoid them, but for those who work to access those zones the payoff is pretty phenomenal. Night fishing changes the game though, and what was only a feeding lie during the day becomes a prime lie due to the darkness. (If the idea of fishing lies is a new concept, follow this link for a quick crash course.)

What are the implications then? For an angler it means that fish are more likely to feed when they first feel safe, and the big fish feel safest in dark or poor light. Fish actively feed at dawn, dusk, and on stormy or overcast days. I think it has a lot to do with a lessened visibility into the water. That is why streamers are so effective at those times, fish feel much less threatened and have come out of their protective lairs to feed. The lessened visibility may also boost the fish's confidence because they know other fish (minnows) are less likely to see them coming. This means they don't have to exert as much energy in the chase. The easier the ambush, the more likely the eat.

All About The Ambush

Night is the perfect venue for fish to eat other fish, mice, birds, little dogs or small children. Temperatures cool, visibility lessens, and the forage has no idea it is about to become the next Thanksgiving dinner.  Fish can see better at night than most people think, even when things are pitch black.  They also rely on scent, sound, and lateral lines.  The lateral lines help fish sense nearby motion (think how a spiderweb alerts the spider of a trapped fly from the vibration). For a fly fisherman, the sight, sound, and vibration are the focus.  I have come to believe that fish rely quite heavily on their sight to feed at night, but even fish need light to see, so how does it work?  It is important to consider what light sources we are dealing with at night.  Is there man-made structures shedding light on the water or is the main source of light coming from the sky, or maybe the moon?  I have never seen underwater lights at night, fortunately. That would freak me out so badly I think I might look for a beaver to come protect me.

For the most part the night lights come from the stars or ambient city lights reflecting on clouds. The dim light shining down on the water creates silhouettes, and profiles whatever happens to be above a wary trout. It is similar to standing in a dark hallway that has a door open with some light coming out.  Imagine someone walking out of the room.  You can't make out any of their features, but you would probably have some idea of who it was, given where you are at (ie: your own home) and your familiarity with that person's profile (not the Facebook kind). Fish do the same thing.  There aren't too many things for them to be looking for, so when they do see something with the right profile and motion they are likely to chase it down.  Understanding the silhouette idea is critical to success, in my own opinion.  Active feeders will usually be looking up.  They seem to hang out just waiting for a promising silhouette to float or swim by.  If it is a minnow or mouse they will often follow it, inspecting it, and wait for the poor morsel to reach the ambushing zone, which is often right next to the bank. When telling someone new about night fishing that is always something I stress, strip it right to the bank.  Not all, but most fish seem to hit within 1-2 feet from the bank, even if it's only 8" of water.  One of the most exciting things about night fishing is the unique takes.  Because fish are coming from below, often the takes can be explosive and loud.  If there is enough light to see the surface of the water you can often witness the splash. 

So, when I go out I look for good ambush water; slower pockets of water where a fish has time to scope out whatever it is chasing, and shallow bank water where a fish can easily chase prey down (this refers mostly to midsized to larger rivers).  Tail-outs of pools, areas where water runs over a gravel shelf and then drops into a deeper slower hole, and along structure such as trees are all good places to explore.  For stillwaters and spring creeks the areas a fish will take could really be anywhere.  Take the time to learn your water, where the fish sit during the day, and where you can hear the water blowing up at night.  I have a friend who swears the middle of the river is the best night fishing location. We rib each other about it all the time, but personally, on moving water, I have found my best luck closer to the banks.  I will often throw out to the faster water and slowly bring it in from those areas, but usually the take is an up-close-and-personal experience.

When stripping at night, I always try to remember that even though a fish can see, I still want to give that fish the best chance possible to track and eat my fly.  This results in two stripping methods when using streamers.  The first is painfully slow strips about a foot long.  I say this because I always have to remind myself to go slower, especially after I just had a violent hit and my adrenaline is pumping.  Painfully slow usually requires an unweighted fly, and I incorporate synthetic materials into my own patterns because they don't soak up water as well, which allows them to ride higher in the water column (working the silhouette).  Some people like to incorporate foam into their night patterns.  Personally, I use a foam head for my mouse pattern, but not the streamers. The second stripping technique that works really well is very short, quick, erratic strips. Make it fast, but don't move too much line. Think of them as twitches, more than strips. This gives your fly that "I've fallen and I can't get up" motion, but still allows the fish to track the fly.  Swinging the fly can also be effective, casting the line straight out in the river or just a little upstream and stripping out some extra line.  The takes on the swing, much like in the daytime, will come once your line has straightened and is moving across the river in a line.  I have also had success just letting the fly swim for a bit once the swing has ended.

One last bit of advice and a couple thoughts that may help in your night fishing endeavors.  It is a good idea to know your terrain.  Learning the water during the day will help you know how to fish it at night, and stay safe.  Use your time on the water during the day to scope out potential ambush water.  Look for areas with lots of minnows or places where mice could easily fall in.  Knowing the location helps eliminate some of the freakiness of exploring at night, and can help you spend more time in productive water.  The other thing I should mention is that I prefer darker nights to lighter nights.  I avoid the full moons most of the time because fish seem to be more active when it is darker.  Who knows, maybe they feel like an adolescent at a school dance where the teachers have the lights on.  One more thing I have noticed, and this may be different in other waters, but not all species of trout have the same nocturnal habits.  If I were to rate them from most active to least active I would say browns, cutthroat, and then rainbows, but this is the case for most of the places I fish and can be different in different waters.

Much much more could be said. Glowing indicators, times of year, and so on, but the enjoyment of this kind of thing comes through personal discovery.   Go explore, experiment, and be persistent, but if you decide to stick to the days I won't hold it against you.  The solitude afforded by night adventures is one of the reasons I keep going back. Here are some links to what other people are saying about night fishing.  Some good thoughts, and if you have anything else to add to what has been said, leave a comment, I am always looking for new ideas, thoughts, and techniques. 

G&G on artificial lighting
FFA's thoughts

OSF's thoughts
FF's thoughts

Some older trip reports

Fishplosions in the night
Night Fishing Does Not Suck (nor does chocolate pudding)
Evening Oddities
Farewell Fall
Bitter Sweet


Edit: A few days after posting this, the following brown happened. 

Tips and Tactics: Fly Fishing Balloon Indicator Setup Made Easy

The Balloon Indicator Experience

Using a water balloon for an indicator is certainly not a common method.  The technique may sound laughable, novel, clown-like, or maybe even redneck.  Having fished mostly Thingamabobbers throughout my nymphing career, I was surprised with the first time I decided to give balloons a try.  They were more sensitive to bites.  I could see what was going on at the end of my line a bit better than with the traditional trapped air/grommet prototypes.  Balloons are lighter, which allows them to move around more easily within the water.  They are also more supple, which allows you to more easily identify whether your flies are running along the river bottom or being nibbled on by an unwary fish.

After my first experience with balloon indicators I noticed a couple drawbacks.  First of all, the traditional way to connect them to the line is to create a slipknot/loop in your leader and cinch it down next to the knot on the balloon.  (Previous Post About It) While this technique works, you cannot move your indicator back and forth without redoing the whole setup, which makes it hard to cover the water column effectively, and the knot kinks your leader quite a bit. Because of these two problems I decided to stick with the good old versatility and ease that Thingamabobbers provide.  At some point I even tried out some alternative balloon methods, like Depth Skru, but I was not very thrilled with the results.  The Depth Skru balloon setups seems like a good alternative, but when I actually fished them I found they were more of a hassle, especially in colder weather.  I decided balloons were just not meant to be in my indicator arsenal.  That was until a few months ago.

Eureka!

Recently a new indicator setup came to my attention.  I say new, but the concept has been around for quite some time now, though I only saw the advertising a few months ago.  It is the New Zealand Indicator setup, which is essentially small plastic tubing with yarn.  There is even a fancy tool for those willing to spend the money.  The following video shows how it works.



New Zealand Strike Indicator Tool from Barry Dombro on Vimeo.


After hearing about this setup something sparked in my mind.  I asked myself, why couldn't this be used with balloons?!  So I tracked down some 2mm plastic tubing, cut up some small pieces, dug out an old stash of water balloons, and hit the water to experiment.  And you know what, IT WORKED!  Since then I have been using the setup, with great results.

The How-To

The how-to is simple.  It is just how the New Zealand deal works, but with a water balloon instead.  Instead of using the fancy tool, I just pinch the line and slide the 4mm chunk of tubing over the line, I blow the balloon up to the desired size, tie it off, slide it through the loop in the line, cinch it down above the knot in the balloon, and nip off the section of balloon below the knot. Also, wetting the bottom of the balloon with your mouth or the river before inserting it can help the balloon slide into the plastic tubing and into place, but if you are too lazy for that the river and inertia will take care of it for you after a couple casts.

One other drawback about balloons is that they are harder to cast in the wind.  This is a result from their lighter weight.  With that in mind, know you can usually get away with a smaller size of indicator (as compared to the Thingamabobbers) because the balloons are lighter themselves.

Supplies

For the tubing, you can get some directly from SrikeIndicator.com, or you can get any 2mm pvc tubing you can find online.  The medical grade stuff only comes in bulk, but it is more flexible and tougher than the bracelet material.  Initially I cut the tubing off of a butterfly needle setup to test out the idea.  Since the medical tubing is more difficult to come by, and I'm too cheap to buy the "Official" stuff off the website, I looked for an alternative online.  I was able to get 5-6' of some lower grade plastic pvc tubing online for $6 from some person on ETSY that sells the stuff for bracelets and necklaces.  I cut up a bunch of 4mm sections and place them in a little plastic container with my balloons.  The medical grade stuff is better if you can find it, but the tubing I purchased from ETSY does the job just fine.

As for the balloons, they are easy to find online, and one bag will last a long time.  I prefer the orange and yellow balloons for most occasions. I recently purchased some more balloons from a seller on EBAY, and will edit this once I know how well they work.  I purchased some "clear" balloons from that same seller that I am hoping will be perfect for wary trout on small spring creeks.  We'll see how it works out.  Once I have the results from those outings I'll edit the info into this post.

POST EDIT: I have come to the conclusion that water balloons are the way to go.  The thinner latex works far better than the regular balloons.




A Couple Other Things To Consider

One other thing I noticed while fishing this setup is that if the balloon cinches down on your line at a weird angle, it will cause your line to spin/coil.  So if you notice your line getting twisted, just change the orientation of your balloon and re-cinch.  Also, when moving the setup back and forth on your leader, do so at a moderate speed, otherwise the friction on your leader will cut into your plastic tubing a bit.

Quick Comparison

Take it for what it's worth.  I'm no scientist, and these are not minutely controlled experiments.  Still the findings were interesting.  I took the same size of balloon/thingamabobber and compared them for buoyancy.  The balloon handled more weight than the thingamabobber.  Not a ton, but it still floated higher.  That showed me that one really can get away with a smaller indicator size with the balloon, when compared to the thingamabobber.  I used the same amount of weight on both and kept adding more in small amounts.  These pictures are what I noticed.

This pic is not a good example of how the balloon connects to the line with the tubing.  If you are doing it right, the balloon will slip down into the tubing.  If you are having trouble with it, you may need to tie your balloon a bit looser.

I am loving the setup.  It makes fishing a balloon extremely easy, just make sure to clean up the bottom part that gets nipped off, or any other balloon fragments if the balloon pops on you.  I still carry Thingamabobbers for backup, and will use them when I'm in a real hurry, but most of the time I'm clowning around with the balloons.  If you still prefer Thingamabobbers, you might consider this newer trick for avoiding kinked line.  It also makes it easier to move your Thingamabobber.

These are a few of the fish that were picked up while using the balloon setup, with many more to come.

Tips: Winter On The Fly

"Brrrr!"  "That doesn't sound like my idea of fun."  "Why would anyone do that?!"  "Have fun freezing to death."  These are amongst the many remarks I hear when gearing up to head out on the water during the winter months here in Idaho.  Why would anyone in their right mind go wading and traipsing through the snow when the thermometer reads somewhere between -10 to 30 degrees?  Well, if done right, fly fishing in the winter can be a fantastic experience.  Imagine the feeling of being snug and warm in your bed, but you are actually standing in the middle of a frigid river and everything is silent except for a small bubbling of water.  Not another angler to be seen.  Pure solitude.  Just you, a rod, a river, fish, and peace and quiet.

Tips: Fly fishing in the cold of winter

Just like we warm blooded land-dwellers eat on a regular basis, fish have to eat regularly too.  Though, just like the conductor of an orchestra slowing the tempo of a previously rousing song, the symphony of life slows as temperatures drop.  Fish will still chase food down, but as a general rule they will not go as far, nor as fast as in warmer times.  Needless to say, winter fishing is worth it if done right.

Stay Warm - This is perhaps the most important thing to keep in mind, and the most common deterrent.  Correct layering of clothing is extremely important.  The first layer (especially in socks) should be breathable and keep your skin dry.  If you get damp from sweat and don't dry out quick your appendages will rapidly cool faster than they can warm.  The next layer should be something that retains warmth.  Wool is an excellent go to, or one of the awesome modern wool blends.  Nothing should be too tight.  If things are too tight, especially in the feet, blood circulation is restricted and warm blood cannot work its magic.

Gloves are essential (at least if you are a scrawny guy like myself).  Some guys prefer to fish without them.  I think most guys wished they weren't necessary, but a good waterproof set of gloves can save the day and your fingers (just ask Brent about that one).  These increase in importance because your hands are in constant contact with wet and frozen line.  The scenario is not given to warmth.  The importance is further emphasized when actually handling fish.  I like to fish with at least my left hand wearing a fully waterproof glove because it is the hand I use for stripping line and releasing fish.  I can reach into the water to hold the fish while de-hooking.  This can also be beneficial to the fish on really cold days, since it protects their gills from freezing.  I would rather remove my gloves to retie flies or untangle line and then return them to my dry gloves, as opposed to using those fingerless gloves that can let water in.  Handwarmers are a great compliment to gloves.  Toss one in each pocket for those particularly cold days.  You can take a short break, warm the hands and get back to business.  They also keep hands drier than blowing on them does.

Keep Dry - This has already been eluded to, but is important enough to reiterate.  Leaky waders are definitely something to avoid.  If they leak and you know it, fix em.  It will prolong the time you can comfortably/safely spend on the water.  Keeping water out of your reel is also a must.  Water in the reel means a frozen reel and all the sudden you find yourself Tenkara fishing. If you have had it happen before you know how maddening it can be.  It is worth the extra attention and effort to keep this part of your gear dry.  I have also learned recently that it is wise to remove water from magnetic net catches before reconnecting them.

Take Your Time - The fish are moving slower, so why shouldn't we?  Taking time to enjoy the view and sounds (or lack thereof) is both enjoyable and wise.  Wade slower.  One dunk in the river, however brief, will end your day and any bed-like sense of nirvana you have achieved in a hurry.  If you are one that can't stand slowing down I suggest you take some dance lessons.  That way when you start to stumble you can dazzle the fish with the fancy footwork.

Sometimes gear acts differently in the cold.  Line may coil, indicators slip, whole rod freezes over, and any other number of unforeseen things.  Most fly gear is aimed at non-freezing temps.  You can't blame the manufacturers, when the majority of anglers avoid cold rivers.  Just realize this and adjust your game accordingly.

De-icing Guides - Ice forming in your guides is inevitable when fishing in the lower winter temps.  This is another thing that keeps the fair-weather fishermen away.   Some guys try to keep the ice to a minimum by putting chapstick on the guides.  I'm not too sure how well it works since I haven't ever had the desire to try it.  As for the removal of ice once it is on the rod, there are a few things that can be done.  The first and easiest thing to do is hold your rod in the water and swish it around until the water removes the ice or loosens it enough that it can be broken out by hand.  When dipping the rod in the water, extra care needs to be given to keep the reel dry.  The next approach is to use your fingers to melt and break the ice out (take extra care around your rod tip).  The last option is to place a guide in your mouth and melt the ice. Be sure to bring your favorite icee flavoring for this method.  I would only suggest the third option in cleaner watersheds and care needs to be given for metal components around the guide (ever seen A Christmas Story?).  The first option is the most preferable and the easiest, but sometimes the water is too cold to do much, then the second and third options are needed.

Locating Fish - Think "easy food."  Where will food/bugs rolling down the river be the most accessible, without requiring the fish to expend much energy.  Deep pools, troughs, and drop-offs are good places to check.  Pockets behind rocks and protected areas on the edge of shelf ice are not likely to disappoint either.

Nymphing - During the cold of winter the thermocline flips in watersheds and the warm water is found at the bottom of the water column.  The deeper the water, the warmer it will be, as odd as it sounds.  Fish will hug the bottom of the river.  Keeping in mind that trout do not move very far for their food when it is cold, and that they are practically sitting on the bottom, a nympher needs to run their flies along the bottom.  If you aren't rolling the bottom, you won't be hooking up.  This is often true concerning nymphing anytime of the year, but especially in the winter.  Wintertime presents some of the best nymphing all year round.  Fish just get hungrier as the winter deepens, and will take any little morsel offered to them on the food conveyor belt the river provides.

Streamers - A lot of anglers avoid streamers during the winter months.  This is a shame and a loss for those who pass it up.  Get the fly deep and in front of their faces and you just might find some surprising results.  Big fish don't entirely go into some hibernation mode.  They are still feeding and will still take the opportunistic swipe at a big meal.  It is a bit more of a trick during the winter because streamers need to be fished slooooow, so the weight needs to be enough to get you down, but not so much that it prevents you from a more relaxed retrieve.  Sinking-tip streamer lines can come in handy in these situations, allowing you to fish a lighter fly.

Dry Fly Midging - This isn't my first choice when winter fishing, but it can be extremely effective.  Supple rods and small tippetts do the trick here.  I like to use my 3wt BVK when chasing surface film sippers.

Buddy System - It sounds a bit elementary but it is just good sense.  When possible avoid going alone.  A good fishing buddy may just save your life.  You never know.  And who else is going to push you out of a snowdrift when you get your car stuck... not that it has ever happened to me... well... maybe.



Lastly, enjoy yourself.  It is a time of year that presents some excellent fishing, and yet many people miss the magic of it all.  Often times when you can get away from what the majority of fisherman are doing your experience can be spectacular.  To catch the fish that most fishermen don't catch, you have to do the things that most fishermen don't do. 

I suppose night fishing on the fly in the winter would fit into that category...   Not something I would suggest on most winter nights here in Idaho.

It would be great to hear your thoughts, tips, and suggestions.  What works for you?  Brent over at Uprising also wrote up some great thoughts on winter fishing.  Head on over and check them out too.